Spring is in full swing in Eastern Nebraska, and things look nice and green, as we have had some nice rains move through. It will not be long before first-cutting alfalfa is started, and some will head to the fields to begin cultivating. This month we will look at a simple way to make your own 3-point for 1/16 tractors that are functional, and look more realistic as if you would mount a cultivator or hay rake right on them to head out for spring work.
 One can obtain various 3-point kits from parts suppliers that are cast to look as close to the real thing as possible, and the proper holes can be drilled in the parts to mount to the tractor and have them be functional as well. However, sometimes the cost of those can add up in a hurry, so to create your own 3-point for only a few dollars worth of brass and a little time, you need to obtain the following from a local hobby store, hardware store, or toy parts supplier. The materials needed are a 1-foot piece of brass strip that is ¼” wide and 1/16” thick, a 1-foot piece of brass rod or round tubing that is 1/8” outside diameter, a 1-foot piece of either 1/16” or .114 brass rod, and several 00-80 brass bolts and nuts (the size that will fit through a 1/16” hole). The materials mentioned here are more than enough to make more than one 3-point assembly.
Start by cutting 2 pieces of the strip that are each 2 ½ inches long. Then, drill a 1/8” hole at each end of those pieces close enough to the end to leave about 1/16” between the hole and the end. You may want to shape the ends to “round them off” for a more real look, and also to ensure a quick coupler can fit on the ends. On each piece, measure 1 inch from one hole and drill a 1/16” hole. This will make that small hole closer to one end of the arm than the other, and that part needs to point outward from the rear of the tractor. Next, cut two more pieces of strip that are each ¾ inch long. Drill a 1/8” hole on one end of each, then measure 5/8 inch from the center of each hole and drill a 1/16” hole on that mark. More shaping might be necessary to taper the piece to be narrower near the small holes.  Also, cut two pieces of the small rod that are each 1 ¾ to 2 inches long, depending on what looks good, and flatten each end of those pieces by placing on a concrete floor or anvil and striking them with a hammer. If you want the look of a larger diameter area on the connecting arm near where it connects to the bottom arm, sliding a ½ to ¾ inch piece of tubing over the rod prior to flattening the ends can accomplish that look. Next, drill a 1/16” hole in each flattened area and make sure that the holes are the same distance from each other on both pieces, otherwise one of them will not fit! Also cut two pieces of the 1/8” rod or tube that are anywhere from 1 ½ to 1 ¾ inches long, and this one may vary based on the width of the casting you are using. These will serve as the rock shafts. Give each of the pieces cut from the strip the slight bends as shown in the pictures to give a more realistic appearance as well as to keep the bottom arms wide enough to accommodate a quick coupler, but narrow enough where they attach to the tractor.
Now that your pieces are all cut and drilled, next take a look at your tractor casting and find a flat space with sufficient room to attach the bottom and top arms of the 3-point assembly (See pictures). There must be enough room to attach them and still allow for the 3-point to pivot. Drill a 1/8” hole in each of those 4 spots (two on each side), and be sure to measure carefully so that each pair of holes is in line with each other to prevent the 3-point from being crooked when installed.
 Once those holes are drilled, you are ready to begin assembling the 3-point. Insert the 1/8” rod or tube in the bottom pair of holes and attach both bottom arms. To keep the arms retained, use either solder or epoxy to keep them in place. Let the loose ends of the arms rest on the bench to ensure they are both positioned exactly the same while doing this. You might also insert the ends of the arms in the slots on your quick coupler to ensure they will be wide enough for it when they are secured to the shaft on the other end after soldering or the epoxy is dry. Repeat this step with the top arms. Next, connect both sets of arms together using the small rods that you prepared using the small brass bolts and nuts. Situate them so they are attached on the outside of each arm (so they are attached between the 3-point arms and wheels). They just need to be somewhat snug, so that they are not too tight that they prevent pivoting of the 3-point. If the small bolts are too long, clip them off right next to the nut and either solder or epoxy the nuts in place to prevent them from spinning off. For the main part of the 3-point, that is all there is to it!
For the top link, you can either fashion your own, or I usually order one from the parts suppliers, as cast top links are only $1-2 a piece, and look pretty realistic. I find that I cannot make one look that good for that cheap, so that part I still purchase. The bracket to mount it to can be purchased as well, and some PTO/sway block/Drawbar kits already have a bracket to attach the top link to anyway. Go ahead and try to make your own! The challenge is part of what makes it fun. For quick couplers, I have usually used a purchased one as well, or none at all, depending on the look I want. A quick coupler can be made from either brass or key stock with a little time and care as well. As always, make sure to observe proper safety procedures when working with tools and bonding products. Good luck!
  
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