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This month will deal with the second part of the two part series on effectively joining brass when customizing or scratch-building farm toys. Part one dealt with soldering technique and various equipment that is available. This second part will deal more specifically with other ways of joining brass, primarily by the use of various epoxy products.
As with last month, I think it is important to first remind everyone of the importance of safety when using the various products that will be described. Most of these products can be hazardous if their fumes are breathed, thus always follow the product directions and warnings. Also, never apply heat from a soldering gun or torch to pieces that contain epoxy or super glue, as hazardous fumes can be produced. Again, wear proper eye and skin protection.
First, before applying any type of bonding agent, it is a good idea to properly prepare the surfaces that will be joined. When working with brass, one may find that the finish on most brass is very smooth and polished. When using epoxy or other bonding agents, this extremely smooth surface can create a lack of means for the agent to “grip” the metal and really hold it together effectively. Therefore, most people typically use a Dremel tool or file to rough the surface up in order to create tiny areas for the agent to fill in and “grip” the metal once it dries. This is a good idea whether brass is used, or plastic parts, diecast, zinc, etc. Always make sure the surfaces are clean and free of dirt or residue.
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Next, let us take a look at the various products that are out there along with my experience of where they fit in the best in most building projects. The majority of the projects I have done include a little of everything as far as joining brass, and other parts for that matter, whether plastic or other metals.
When I first started experimenting with custom building several years ago, I used to rely on plain old super glue a lot more than I do now. Super glue has many practical applications, but since all of my work is in 1/16 scale, I decided I want something that creates an even longer lasting bond for larger models and parts. Super glue can be bought at nearly any department, hobby, or even grocery store for less than a dollar. I avoid using super glue on pieces when building that are components of a model that give it its structural integrity. The reason for this is that it seems that after longer periods of time, the bond that it creates can sometimes weaken or become brittle. As a result, I have come to only rely on super glue to hold something together right away while a stronger epoxy dries, since it may take longer. For example, when adding a brass, plastic, or zinc part to a tractor, where solder will not work, I put a dab of super glue on one corner of the part, while applying a stronger epoxy to the rest of the surface that will be joined. Since the super glue bonds instantly, it holds the part in place while the stronger bonding agent takes a longer period of time to dry, but then ultimately makes the strongest bond possible.
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Another popular product that many use is JB Weld. It is very effective in many applications, but like with super glue, I typically do not use JB Weld for areas that make up a piece’s structural integrity also. Mainly speaking from experience on this one as well, I have had things break very easily at critical structural points after being bonded with JB Weld. I still use JB Weld for many things, however, as it is still a wonderful product. I prefer to let it function as a filler, since it can be sanded and ground smooth. On projects where I have used brass after all soldering has been done, I have applied it to areas that need a groove filled in, or a hole, or other type of blemish that may have occurred during building. Once it has been sanded smooth and the project painted, it is hard to see where it was used, if not impossible, if sanded well. Another good application for JB Weld is filling in the seam that runs down the center of nearly every casting. After it has dried and been sanded smooth, several coats of paint will make that seam disappear. It works well for hiding unused rivet holes, as well. I have never tried the faster-curing version of JB Weld, but give it a chance, it may work well for you!
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The main product I have come to appreciate the most for creating good strong bonds when using brass as well as plastic and diecast are the two-part epoxies that come in the plunger-cylinder packaging. They involve mixing equal amounts of both components, and then applying the mixture to your work. There are many different brands, and I have tried several, all of them with good results. When the soldering has been all done, and I need to attach very small pieces that, for whatever reason, it will not work to solder, I use these epoxies to securely attach various parts. Most of these products can be purchased at hardware stores for $3.00 to $6.00, so they are relatively inexpensive, and when using them, a little goes quite a ways. These also can be sanded and ground smooth after being fully cured.
One other pointer to remember when using these products is to clamp the pieces your are joining together if at all possible. Sometimes it can be tough, but clamping the pieces tightly together can help the bond be as strong as possible, if all pieces are fit tightly together. It mainly keeps pieces from sagging or falling apart while the epoxy is still wet and not fully cured. If clamping will not work, try the dab of super glue on one corner trick! It then at least keeps the part from sagging while the other epoxy dries. I use several types of clamps, all the way from various forms of vice grips, to clamps used in wood-working, to cranking C-clamps. Some hardware stores carry small C-clamps and spring-loaded clamps for very reasonable prices. A few of my cranking C-clamps that are the perfect size for toy work were even found at a dollar store for a package of three for $1.
Hopefully these pointers from both Part One and Two have encouraged those of you who have been thinking of trying some of these methods. Remember, these are not the only ways to go about building a model. The two biggest things to remember are 1) practice makes perfect, and don’t get discouraged if something doesn’t turn out right the first, second, or even third time, and 2) find a technique that works for you, because each of us has our own preferences, ideas, and ways of making different things work that others may not think of. That diversity is part of what makes the hobby fun!
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