Toy makers have done a fantastic job recently producing some incredibly detailed late-model pickups. These trucks do a great job adding realism to a farm display or collection. The problem is that even the largest, most prosperous farms more than likely have a pickup from the 70's or 80's that they keep around to perform some of the less glamorous chores. Die-cast trucks from that era are starting to become more available, but most are produced as tricked out street trucks, not farm workhorses.
 As you can see in my Dodge pickup model roundup elsewhere in this issue, the 70's and 80's Dodges definately can be included in the under-represented category. Despite being produced for over 20 years with few exterior changes, there is but one model of this era of Dodge pickup, a 77-78 model produced by Johnny Lightning. The Johnny Lightning truck was initially produced as a replica of the limited edition Dodge "Li'l Red Truck Express". Since that initial model, a dozen different variations using that same casting have been produced, all with quite a bit of detail, especially on the later variations. These trucks feature not only clear glass, an opening hood and painted details on the grill, but many have painted details on the side marker lamps, door handles, window trim, windshield wipers, drip rails and on some models, even pin striping. Despite all of this detail, a lack of a full-size bed would keep most from considering this a work truck. Fortunately, a little customizing can fix this situation.
Because there have been so many variations of these trucks produced, there are several different colors that are available. As you will see, it is possible to complete this project without repainting the cab. Puting forth a little extra effort or money up front to find the color of your choice can save you from the work of repainting it. More importantly, it will allow you to keep the details already painted on this truck that you will probabably be unable to reproduce with as good of results on your own.
 The first step in modifying your truck is disassembling it. You can remove the body from the chassis by drilling out the rivets at the front and rear of the truck. With the body and the chassis seperated, go ahead and remove the interior from the chassis. You can also remove the hood from the body to keep it from falling out on its own and getting chipped, and the exhaust stacks if the version you are using is so equipped. If you are going to repaint your truck, you will also want to remove the windows by grinding away some of the rivet holding them in. If you are not repainting the windows, it is fine to leave them in.
 The only modification necessary for the body of the truck is to remove the bed. Due to the stepside layout, it is fairly easy to cut the bed away without damaging the visible exterior by cutting where it attaches to the back of the cab. This can be done with a saw or a cutting wheel on a rotary tool. Carefully grind off any remaining material on the back of the cab.
The next area to modify is the chassis. Start by removing the axles and wheels by grinding away the tabs that hold them in place. The rest of the modifications depend on what bed you are  wanting to add to your truck. While certainly not impossible, adding a stock-appearing 8' pickup bed would take alot of work. An easier option is to add a flatbed which, as anybody from the "rust belt" can attest, is not all that uncommon of a sight on late 70's / early 80's work trucks. Making your own flatbed is an option, and might even add to the work-truck character of the truck. However, for the sake of time, I chose to use a flatbed off of one of Ertl's F-350s.
 To add the flatbed, you need to lengthen the Dodge's chassis. Fortunately, this is surpisingly easy to do. Cut the chassis just ahead of the rear axle. Cut off any extra material behind the cab so that only the frame rails that are cast into the chassis remain. This provides a good place to attach a new rear frame.
A new rear frame can be easily fabricated from some 5/32" brass channel. This should be just large enough to fit around the frame rails on the Dodge's original chassis. Cut the channel into two sections around 1 1/2" long. Next, cut a piece of 1/8" channel or square tubing to a length equal to the width of the original frame rails. Attach the 5/32" channel onto the original frame rails beginning just behind the cab. Add the 1/8" brass piece as a cross-member for reinforcement.
 With the chassis complete, you are ready to prepare it for the bed. If you use the Ertl bed, you will need to cut off the mounting tab just ahead of the "headache rack". The bed will also likely sit too low on the chassis to allow adequate clearance for your tires, so you will need to add a spacer between the frame rails and the bottom of the bed. Some toothpicks, coffee stirrers or any other wood strips between 1/16" and 1/8" thick will work just fine.
 At this point, the cab and the bed should be positioned on your chassis. All that you are lacking now is some wheels. I like to use the wheels from the same Ford truck that donated its flatbed. For tips on removing the wheels, see my April 2004 article. Once they are removed from the Ford, you will need a way to mount them on your truck. To hold the axles in place, I run them through 1/8" brass tubing, cut in long enough sections to span between the wheels. To mount the tubing to the front, you will need to grind notches just below the original front axle. Use your new front axle to help you locate the notches so that the wheels will line up with the wheel wells. You can simply attach the rear axle tube to the rear frame rails, although you may want to add a spacer between the tube and the axle to allow clearance for the bed and/or make your truck sit level.
All that remains is to paint your truck, and put it all together. Another nice feature of the Ertl flatbed is that the headache rack covers up the back of the cab, so unless you really want to, you don't have to paint the area where you cut off the original bed. You will likely want to paint your now diecast and brass chassis. You will also probably want to paint the bed. As you are choosing the paint color, keep in mind that if you are making a "beater" work truck, it might not have a fancy stainless steel or aluminum bed common on many newer trucks.
Once the paint is dry, you are ready to assemble your truck. Add the interior, cab, bed and wheels and you are done. Hopefully you have found this to be a fairly straightforward modification, and have a nice work truck to add to your display or collection.
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