“The Wild Hog” 1466 Precision Puller
by Jason Rhodes
 |
| IH 1466 Precision Puller |
This month I decided to do an article on the tearing down, and rebuilding of an Ertl Precision International 1466. The following contains pictures which some collectors and builders may find disturbing. I received an order for a black stripe IH 1466 Puller several months ago. The fella wanted me to make a model which looked liked the 1466 Pro Stock his father used to pull.
We tossed around several different building routes to take. I have customized a few Precision models in the past, then sold the removed parts on EBay. They usually fetch a pretty fair price as not many people tear apart a Precision. After running the numbers, the estimated cost only came out to around fifty dollars more for a Precision custom puller after selling the parts I removed.
Some folks are not crazy about the idea of taking a brand new tractor from the box, and customizing it. I always feel pretty good about it. I know that someone is getting a one of a kind custom model that they want. Also, every time I remove a brand new tractor from the box and customize it, which is one less of those models still out there in NIB condition. If the trend picks up more, I feel that over time it could help to increase the value for NIB collectors over a period of years.
Now that we had a plan set forth, I ordered up the Precision 1466 from Binkley & Hurst. The first step was to remove the small screws which hold the cab on. At first I tried using just a small precision screwdriver. Even assisted with a pair of pliers for turning, they were extremely tight and difficult to remove. An idea popped into my head after the first screw.
I cut the top off the screw driver with my wire cutters. Then I put it into the chuck of one of my cordless drills. It was an instant night and day difference. If you ever tear down a precision, be sure to make this simple tool.
Once the cab was removed, I was at sort of a stand still. I could not find ANY more small screws that appeared to hold the platform on. After about fifteen minutes of deliberating, I decided the final screws MUST be under the seat. I applied firm pressure to the seat with my thumbs, and sure enough an epoxy bond broke, and the seat came off revealing the screws underneath. Once these screws were removed, the platform came off without a hitch.
Next, I decided to remove the front wheels so I could replace them with the new ones. If you look closely at the top of the spindle, you can see a small circlip which holds it all together. Once you pop that off, you can loosed the steering arm and slide the spindle and front wheel right out. I built a new spindle and installed it along with the new wheel, rather than trying to remove the old wheel from its spindle. It appeared as thought it would break pretty easily.
Now I needed to remove the cast-in cab mounts and trim on the tractor.
I used a shop towel and masking tape to cover over areas which I new I would not have to repaint. From their I used a rotary tool with a cutting disc to slowly and carefully remove all the cab trim and mounts. It all came off quite easily. I did not even have to use any bondo to clean it up when I was finished.
The fenders were one of the more challenging parts of the build. The rear axel on this tractor is unlike any other I have customized in the past. This meant none of my other usual fender mounting methods would work. After removing the cab, you have a 3/16" gap on each axel right about where the fender should mount. I used this to my advantage. I drilled two 1/16" wholes on each side of the axel rod which passes though there. Then I attached two 1/16" nails to the bottom of each fender. Finally I assembled it together, sticking the nails through the holes and soldering them on the underside.
From there I soldered a piece of steel in the gap to tighten the fender in nice and tight side to side.
Once I had removed the three point hitch, PTO’s, and drawbar it was pretty much like any other custom puller build. I scratch built a steel cover to go over the hole in the back of the tractor. I then riveted that panel in place. I like to grind my rivets down so they look like bolt heads before I use them. It makes them look a little better. Now that the steel panel was firmly in place, I had something I could solder the wheelie bars and hitch to.
This project was a bit of challenge, but nonetheless a very fun build. I always enjoy projects which make you think and come up with a couple new ideas along the way. The final pictures show the tractor just prior to installation of the removable side shields and "The Wild Hog" graphics along with a couple other small details. In the end, it only cost forty dollars more to have a precision custom puller with removable side shields, a highly detailed motor, and other precision detailing. If you have any questions about this project feel free to drop me an email.
 The real "Wild Hog" IH Puller |
 Precision Custom Puller |
Puller
|
| Pulling
Tractors and Customs
Custom built to order Pulling tractors and some models ready to ship. E-mail or Call for models available. Jeff Blackburn 683 Beech Wood CT #29 Ripon, WI 54971 E-Mail: Polarisjb@charter.net Phone: 920-410-4375
|
|
Back
to the index
