Customizing Tires and Wheels
By Dave Tallon, Tallon Custom Collectables

One of the most common modifications to a toy tractor is changing out the stock tires and wheels for some aftermarket ones.  This seemingly simple customizing task is a common source of frustration for all toy customizers at some point.  Since toy tractors are usually intented as just that, toys, the tires and wheels must be attached firmly enough that they can’t come off during the normal sand box wear and tear.  Like the “child proof” lids on drug bottles, the wheels and tires on toy tractors are often difficult for adults to remove as well.  All of them, however, are removable with enough patience and the right technique and there is no doubt that many toys will benefit from a more realistic set of tires and wheels.


Left - Scale Models Steiger CP1400 with stock tires and wheels
Right - Custom Steiger CP1400 with C&D's tires and custom wheels

There are several methods used to attach tires to tractors and other farm toys.  One of the most popular is an axle rod that goes through the wheels, with a head on one end and a rivet on the other.  The easiest way to remove this axle is to drill out the rivet.  If you try using a drill, the axle will usually spin with the bit.  I have had better luck using high speed rotary tool with a round grinding bit.  If you hold it at an angle, the rotation of the bit won’t be as likely to cause the axle to rotate.  The disadvantage of the rotary tool over the drill is that the rotary tool can quickly slip off the rivet and into the soft plastic wheel.  If you are careful and hold the tool steady, however, this shouldn’t be a problem.  This method also can be used on the older Ertl four-wheel drives with riveted on tires, and the Ertl four wheel steering Case four-wheel drives. 

Another common method for attaching wheels, especially in recent years, is a plastic wheel that slides over the end of an axle rod.  The ends of these axles are often ribbed to bite into the plastic and help the wheels stay on, but also make it more difficult to get them off.  Depending on how well the wheels are attached, there are several methods you can use to get them to come off.  If the wheels are not too tight, you can often hold one with each hand and twist and pull to get them off.  Unfortunately for toy customizers, that method usually doesn’t work with Ertl toys.  For Ertl toys, it is usually necessary to first remove the rubber tires from the wheels, so you can get a firm grip on them.  With the tires removed, try again by holding the wheels in your hands and pulling and twisting.  If the tires are still being stubborn, grab one wheel with a pair of pliers and the other with either a second set of pliers or a vice.  It is a delicate balance to grab it firmly enough to get a good grip, but not so firmly that you damage the wheel.  So long as you grab the portion of the wheel that is covered up by the tire, and stay away from the outside face, you should be OK.  Once I have a firm grip, I use a twisting motion to work the wheel off of the axle.  Soaking the wheels in hot water, or warming them VERY briefly on low heat in the oven, can also soften the plastic enough to help get them off.  Just be very careful when touching any metal parts that might have warmed with the plastic as metal tends to hold heat longer than plastic. Also be careful not to heat the wheels, or any other plastic parts, too long or at too high of a temperature or they will melt.  Another method for removing plastic wheels that works on some models can be found on TTS.

The tires on trailers, implements and the front of two wheel drive tractors are often attached using yet another different method.  These tires are snapped into place by pushing them over a metal axle rod with a barb on the end that is slightly larger than the hole in the wheel.  These tires can usually be pulled or pushed back over the barb to get them off.  Some will come off just by pulling with your hands.  If that doesn’t work, you can remove the rubber tire and pull the wheel off with some pliers, or, pry it off with a pry bar.




Unfortunately, sometimes the plastic of the snap-on wheel is tougher than the metal rod it mounts on and the rod will break off.  This is actually pretty simple to fix.  Find a nail that is close to the same diameter as the rod was.  Grind the head to match the profile of the barb on the end of the axle rod.  Drill a hole the same size as the nail where the axle rod was.  Cut nail to the appropriate length and glue it into the hole.




Putting tires and wheels back on your tractor is usually a lot easier than getting them off.  If you plan on reusing the through-axle Ertl wheels, or use other aftermarket wheels, like Standi or C&D that use a through axle, get a section of steel rod that fits snugly in the wheels or is slightly larger (usually 1/8"). Cut it to the desired length. Drill out the axle hole(s) in the tractor if necessary to allow the axle to turn freely. If the axle is slightly larger than the hole in the wheel, use a drill bit to make the wheel hole larger. The plastic is soft, so I usually turn the bit by hand to keep from making the hole too big. Center your new axle in your tractor and slide the wheels on. If you have some that fit tighter than others, use those on the inside.  You are less likely to want to remove them and they will better keep the axle in place. If the wheels are a little too loose for your liking, you can paint the axle to help them stay on better.

Re-using the wheels that slide over the ends of the axles is even easier than the through axles.  So long as the wheels were not damaged in the process of taking them off, you can just put them back on the axle.  Unfortunately, the original axle isn’t always the right length for a project once it has been customized.  In these instances, I recommend cutting it if you need a shorter axle, or using a section of wire of similar diameter for longer axles.  Hardware and hobby stores frequently carry sections of wire in a variety of diameters.  When you cut an axle shorter, or make a new one altogether, you loose the ribbed part of the axle that helps hold the wheel on.  In these cases, a little glue is often required to keep the wheels from coming off.  Try to use as little glue as possible, and make sure you don't get any on the axle where it needs to spin freely through a hole.  To avoid this, I glue one or both wheels on before I install the axle if at all possible.

I’m sure there are other tricks out there for getting tires and wheels off of tractors, but these will hopefully help you with a common challenge in tractor customizing.

Tallon Tips Article Index

04/2003 - Detailing AGCO MFWD Tractors
05/2003 - Making Your Own Decals
06/2003 - Making 1/64 Pullers Pt. 1
07/2003 - Making 1/64 Pullers Pt. 2
08/2003 - Making a McCormick MTX
09/2003 - Photographing Scale Models
10/2003 - Making Custom Grain Trucks
11/2003 - Detailing a White 4-270
12/2003 - Making a John Deere 6030

01/2004 - Getting Started in Customizing
02/2004 - Dave Tallon's Custom Collection
03/2004 - Building a C&D Steiger Wildcat Kit
04/2004 - Building a Chevy Crew Cab Dually



 


Jimmy's Farm Toys

A Collector who sells toys to collectors.  Visit my web page to see a good selection of 1/64, 1/32 and 1/16 farm toys that I sell.  Make sure to check out my farm display at the website too.

www.jimmysfarmtoys.com


TTT May 2004 Page 3

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