Customizing
Tires and Wheels
By Dave Tallon, Tallon Custom Collectables
One
of the most common modifications to a toy tractor is changing out the
stock tires and wheels for some aftermarket ones. This
seemingly simple customizing task is a common source of frustration for
all toy customizers at some point. Since toy tractors
are usually intented as just that, toys, the tires and wheels must be
attached firmly enough that they can’t come off during the normal sand
box wear and tear. Like the “child proof” lids on
drug bottles, the wheels and tires on toy tractors are often difficult
for adults to remove as well. All of them, however,
are removable with enough patience and the right technique and there is
no doubt that many toys will benefit from a more realistic set of tires
and wheels.
Left
- Scale Models Steiger CP1400 with stock tires and wheels
Right
- Custom Steiger CP1400 with C&D's tires and custom
wheels
|
There
are several methods used to attach tires to tractors and other farm
toys. One of the most popular is an axle rod that
goes through the wheels, with a head on one end and a rivet on the
other. The easiest way to remove this axle is to
drill out the rivet. If you try using a drill, the
axle will usually spin with the bit. I have had
better luck using high speed rotary tool with a round grinding bit.
If you hold it at an angle, the rotation of the bit won’t be as
likely to cause the axle to rotate. The disadvantage
of the rotary tool over the drill is that the rotary tool can quickly
slip off the rivet and into the soft plastic wheel. If
you are careful and hold the tool steady, however, this shouldn’t be a
problem. This method also can be used on the older
Ertl four-wheel drives with riveted on tires, and the Ertl four wheel
steering Case four-wheel drives.
Another
common method for attaching wheels, especially in recent years, is a
plastic wheel that slides over the end of an axle rod. The
ends of these axles are often ribbed to bite into the plastic and help
the wheels stay on, but also make it more difficult to get them off. Depending
on how well the wheels are attached, there are several methods you can
use to get them to come off. If the wheels are not
too tight, you can often hold one with each hand and twist and pull to
get them off. Unfortunately for toy customizers, that
method usually doesn’t work with Ertl toys. For
Ertl toys, it is usually necessary to first remove the rubber tires from
the wheels, so you can get a firm grip on them. With
the tires removed, try again by holding the wheels in your hands and
pulling and twisting. If the tires are still being
stubborn, grab one wheel with a pair of pliers and the other with either
a second set of pliers or a vice. It is a delicate balance to grab
it firmly enough to get a good grip, but not so firmly that you damage
the wheel. So long as you grab the portion of the wheel that is
covered up by the tire, and stay away from the outside face, you should
be OK. Once
I have a firm grip, I use a twisting motion to work the wheel off of the
axle. Soaking the wheels in hot water, or warming
them VERY briefly on low heat in the oven, can also soften the plastic
enough to help get them off. Just be very careful
when touching any metal parts that might have warmed with the plastic as
metal tends to hold heat longer than plastic. Also be careful not to
heat the wheels, or any other plastic parts, too long or at too high of
a temperature or they will melt. Another
method for removing plastic wheels that works on some models can be
found on TTS.
The
tires on trailers, implements and the front of two wheel drive tractors
are often attached using yet another different method. These
tires are snapped into place by pushing them over a metal axle rod with
a barb on the end that is slightly larger than the hole in the wheel.
These tires can usually be pulled or pushed back over the barb to
get them off. Some will come off just by pulling with
your hands. If that doesn’t work, you can remove
the rubber tire and pull the wheel off with some pliers, or, pry it off
with a pry bar.
Unfortunately,
sometimes the plastic of the snap-on wheel is tougher than the metal rod
it mounts on and the rod will break off. This is
actually pretty simple to fix. Find a nail that is
close to the same diameter as the rod was. Grind the
head to match the profile of the barb on the end of the axle rod.
Drill a hole the same size as the nail where the axle rod was.
Cut nail to the appropriate length and glue it into the hole.
Putting
tires and wheels back on your tractor is usually a lot easier than
getting them off. If you plan on reusing the
through-axle Ertl wheels, or use other aftermarket wheels, like Standi
or C&D that use a through axle, get a section of steel rod that fits
snugly in the wheels or is slightly larger (usually 1/8"). Cut
it to the desired length. Drill out the axle hole(s) in the tractor if
necessary to allow the axle to turn freely. If the axle is slightly
larger than the hole in the wheel, use a drill bit to make the wheel
hole larger. The plastic is soft, so I usually turn the bit by hand to
keep from making the hole too big. Center your new axle in your tractor
and slide the wheels on. If you have some that fit tighter than others,
use those on the inside. You are less likely to want to remove
them and they will better keep the axle in place. If the wheels are a
little too loose for your liking, you can paint the axle to help them
stay on better.
Re-using the wheels that slide over the ends of the axles is even easier
than the through axles. So long as the wheels were
not damaged in the process of taking them off, you can just put them
back on the axle. Unfortunately, the original axle
isn’t always the right length for a project once it has been
customized. In these instances, I recommend cutting
it if you need a shorter axle, or using a section of wire of similar
diameter for longer axles. Hardware and hobby stores
frequently carry sections of wire in a variety of diameters.
When you cut an axle shorter, or make a new one altogether, you loose
the ribbed part of the axle that helps hold the wheel on. In these
cases, a little glue is often required to keep the wheels from coming
off. Try to use as little glue as possible, and make sure you
don't get any on the axle where it needs to spin freely through a hole.
To avoid this, I glue one or both wheels on before I install the axle if
at all possible.
I’m
sure there are other tricks out there for getting tires and wheels off
of tractors, but these will hopefully help you with a common challenge
in tractor customizing.
|
Tallon Tips Article Index
04/2003 -
Detailing AGCO MFWD Tractors
05/2003 -
Making Your Own Decals
06/2003 -
Making 1/64 Pullers Pt. 1
07/2003 -
Making 1/64 Pullers Pt. 2
08/2003 -
Making a McCormick MTX
09/2003 -
Photographing Scale Models
10/2003 -
Making Custom Grain Trucks
11/2003 -
Detailing a White 4-270
12/2003 -
Making a John Deere 6030
01/2004 -
Getting Started in Customizing
02/2004 -
Dave Tallon's Custom Collection
03/2004 -
Building a C&D Steiger Wildcat Kit
04/2004 -
Building a Chevy Crew Cab Dually
|
|