By Dave Tallon, Tallon Custom Collectables
Caterpillar
Ag Products spent millions of dollars and countless man-hours developing
the Challenger MT Series tracked ag tractors, which were arguably
themost advanced ag tractor up to that time. The smaller of the
two sizes, the MT700 series, was unveiled to dealers in August of 2001.
However, in December, only a few months after the introduction,
Caterpillar shocked the ag community by announcing they were selling off
their Challenger line to AGCO. The tractors continued to be sold
by Caterpillar dealers, but AGCO took over all control of the
design and support of the tractors. 
Due
to the change in control of the Challenger line, collectors had two
different companies produce Challenger models. Norscot, who
primarily produces Caterpillar models, produced a 1/32 scale model of
the largest tractor in the MT700 family, the MT765. This model was
introduced in the fall of 2002, and featured excellent detail.
Scale Models, who produces the majority of AGCO collectables, introduced
two of their own versions of the MT765 almost a year later, this time in
1/64 and 1/16 scales. The 1/16 version shared many of the features
of Norscot's 1/32 version, but was slightly less detailed. The
1/64 version, in typical Scale Models fashion, features diecast metal
components in areas where others might use plastic. It is less
detailed than many other recently introduced tractor models, but does
have possibly the best rolling tracks of any other 1/64 tracked tractor
on the market. Although some of the finer details are lacking, the
Scale Models 1/64 MT765 provides a great foundation for customizers who
want to dress it up.There are several variations of the 1/64 MT765 that have been produced. There is the "Signature Edition", and versions for both the 2003 and 2004 Farm Progress Shows. Depending on which version you have there are a few simple modifications you might want to make. The first batch of models had unpainted rivets on the undercarriage. The rivets were painted black on later units. If yours is the unpainted version, a little flat balck paint brushed on the rivets will give the undercarriage an added touch of realism. Another feature common to many versions of the MT765 models is printing on the roof. If you do not wish to have that printing on your detailed model, a little non-acetone nail polish remover will take it off. As you are doing this, be careful not to get it on the decals.
For
even more added details, you can add hand rails, mirrors, a flasher
light bar and antenna. These are surprisingly simple to make, and you
probably even have most of the materials around the house. For
hand rails and the mirror mounting bars, I use small paperclips.
Paperclips can easily be bent to whatever shape you desire, and the
diameter of the small paperclips provides just enough strength without
looking too big. 
The
rails along the steps can be made in one piece, and use almost one whole
paperclip (1). Start by straightening the paperclip as best you
can (2). It doesn't have to be perfectly straight since you will
just be bending it again. Next, bend it into a square
"U" shape, with the bottom of the "U" in near the
middle with one side about 1/8" longer than the other. Make
the bottom, flat part of the "U" about 3/8" wide (3).
Take the longer side, and put a slight "jog" in it (4).
About 1/2" from the bottom of the "U", make a curved bend
downward. This curve needs to be shaped such that if the bottom of
the "U" is at the top of the stairs, the ends line up with the
steps (5). Bend the ends inward so that they touch the side of the
steps (6). Getting the bends just right is typically a process of
trial and error to get it just right. 
Next
you will want to make the supports for your mirrors. The one on
the left hand side requires a section of paper clip about 1" long.
Bend it such that one end will extend about 3/16" under the step
outside the cab door. Then make a jog up so that it meets up with
the hand rails for the steps and then extends about 1/4" above the
top of the hand rails. On the end that extends about the rails,
glue on a 1/8" x 1/4" piece of metal or plastic for a mirror. 
For
the right hand side, you will need a section of paper clip about 1
3/4" long. One end will tuck underneath the cab top, and the
other will curl inside the cab through the openning next the the exhaust
stack. The location and angles of the bends is almost impossible
to describe verbally, so please reference the sketch and photos.
Here again, glue on a 1/8" x 1/4" piece of metal or plastic
for a mirror. 
The
next detail to add is a bar for the flasher lights. On the real tractor,
these bars extend out from the top of the fenders to the outside of the
tracks. For my models, I make a support to mount the flasher bars
that wraps around and blends in with the bottom of the rear of the cab.
This is much more durable than glueing bars on to the tops of the
fenders individually. To make the flasher bar support requires yet
another paper clip. Bend the paper clip to match the contour of
the back of the cab, where the cab meets the fenders. Next bend it
so that it sticks straight out from the cab, just below the rear cab
pillars. Trim the paperclip so these pieces extend about 1/4"
out from the cab. Cut two 1/2" sections of 1/16" square
brass tubing. Slide the tubing over the ends of the paperclip.
Before you attach all of your accessories to the tractor, paint them with some gloss or semi-gloss black paint. After the black paint has dried, add some silver on the side of the mirrors that face the cab, and a few small touches of red or orange for reflectors on your flasher bar. Small black beads, glued on edge, make nice flashers for the bar. After all the detail painting is complete, glue the bar and rails to the tractor. To make it easier to attache the hand rails and mirror supports, I suggest removing the rubber tracks. This will give you better access to the bottom of the steps where you need to glue the hand rails and left hand mirror. The final touch I like to ad to my tractors is a radio antenna. For this I use black bristles from a push broom. The bristles do a good job of providing just enough flexibility yet stand upright. Glue the bristle on to the desired location on your cab top.
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Tallon Tips Article Index
03/2003
- Removing Tampos
04/2003 -
Detailing AGCO MFWD Tractors05/2003 - Making Your Own Decals 06/2003 - Making 1/64 Pullers Pt. 1 07/2003 - Making 1/64 Pullers Pt. 2 08/2003 - Making a McCormick MTX 09/2003 - Photographing Scale Models 10/2003 - Making Custom Grain Trucks 11/2003 - Detailing a White 4-270 12/2003 - Making a John Deere 6030 01/2004 - Getting Started in Customizing 02/2004 - Dave Tallon's Custom Collection 03/2004 - Building a C&D Steiger Wildcat Kit 04/2004 - Building a Chevy Crew Cab Dually 05/2004 - Tire Customizing Basics 06/2004 - Making 4WD Pulling Trucks 07/2004 - Making Articulated 4WD Tractors 08/2004 - Making 1/64 Service Trucks |
